Many people often ask how Horween Glazed or Unglazed Shell Cordovan will age. This is often asked in the context of both footwear and leather goods. Luckily, I happen to have experience with both!
In March of 2016, I was able to order a custom pair of boots from Rider Boot Company in Horween Unglazed Natural Shell Cordovan. The photo below is what they looked like brand new with no wears.
This pair of boots started my quest to acquire some Unglazed Shell Cordovan which I could use for leather goods. After speaking with Horween, I was able to acquire some Unglazed Natural Shell Cordovan which I have used for both personal use and products for other people.
What does it mean that the leather is 'Unglazed'?
Unglazed Shell Cordovan follows almost all the same tanning steps as standard glazed shell cordovan. The primary difference is that the final glazing and boarding step is omitted. That last step is what gives standard shell cordovan its characteristic high sheen and glassy surface. Without it, the leather has a more matte, organic finish with a slightly different hand feel. It is still shell cordovan in every meaningful sense, but it wears differently over time.
How do they age differently?
Glazed Shell Cordovan develops its patina more gradually. The high-gloss surface tends to reflect light uniformly at first, and character builds through concentrated wear points. Unglazed Shell Cordovan shows wear and patina more immediately. Within the first few uses, the leather begins to develop pull-up and variation in finish that gives it a lived-in look faster than its glazed counterpart.
Neither approach is superior. They are simply different expressions of the same underlying material.
A Note on Vintage Horween Shell: Age Does Not Mean Decline
A while back, I came across some NOS (new old stock) Horween Shell Cordovan from a supplier. The first thing that struck me was how old it clearly was. Not from any decline in quality or suppleness (it was still quite supple), but from the Horween stamp on the interior, which is noticeably different from what Horween uses today.
After checking with some people at Horween, the consensus was that this shell had been sitting in a supplier's inventory for a significant length of time. This should serve as reassurance: well-stored shell cordovan does not deteriorate the way other leathers can. The tanning process makes it remarkably stable. If you ever come across old stock, do not assume age alone means lesser quality.
For a comprehensive overview of all Horween leathers including Chromexcel, Dublin, and Essentials, see All About Horween Leather.
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